Captain Underpants

I haven't posted about my quest to make my own underwear for a while but I have actually been making (and wearing) some.

When I saw Zoe's leopard print knickers that she made I instantly wanted a pair.
I found some cheap stretchy mesh leopard print fabric at Kutwell. It's the kind of thing I'd usually avoid like the plague because I'm not generally a fan of wearing synthetics but I planned to line it so it didn't really matter. I used some thin black cotton lycra for lining and fold over elastic (the best elastic ever) to finish the edges. I used the same high waisted 80s pattern I used last time. I gotta say, I think they are pretty awesome but then again I love anything leopard print. They fit similarly to these in terms of high waisted-ness.

For some reason I've had real trouble finding stretch cottons with cute prints here. All I can find is solid colour t-shirting fabric. Maybe I'm the only person around here weird enough to make her own underwear. This may actually be the case. When I told the woman at the fabric store that I was using the fabric I was buying to make knickers she laughed nervously and looked at me like I was crazy.
I bought this flower and bird print off Etsy. It's a cotton interlock type knit which isn't as good as cotton/spandex for making knickers but I loved the print.

These are a completely different style to the other ones I've made. I love the look of American Apparel's unisex brief but I would never buy from them for a variety of reasons including their super creepy CEO, gross company policies and this. I used a pattern meant for a 12 year old boy and some neon cotton/spandex. They fit well and are really comfortable.
Making knickers is strangely addictive. Once you get the hang of it they come together quickly and you can make multiple pairs at a time.

Sewing Lingerie Part 3

Remember, ages ago, when I said I was going to try making my own underwear? I didn't forget, I just got distracted by other things. I bought the book, Kwik Sew's Beautiful Lingerie from Trademe a while ago. Some of the patterns in it are questionable and they are all sewn in some pretty dreadful late 80s/early 90s fabrics but I tried to look past that and found some of the patterns are actually quite good.



I had been thinking about drafting a pattern for a pair of high-waisted knickers (I refuse to use the word panties. It makes me shudder.) because almost everything I wear is high-waisted and modern knickers always sit way too low. All the high-waisted knickers you can buy here are granny type ones that are beige and usually made of something synthetic (double shudder).
This pattern from the Kwik Sew book was pretty much the exact shape I had in mind.



I made them from a stripey stretch cotton from the cheap table at the fabric shop. The edges are bound with fold over elastic which was $8 for a bag with 20 metres in it (bargain!). They were so quick and easy to put together. I used Zoe's tutorial for the construction. I've made three pairs and they have fast become my favourite underwear. They are really comfortable and they look cute on.



I wanted a matching bra so the sew-along at A Few Threads Loose was perfect timing. The pattern is the Pauline Bra from Anna's Etsy shop, Mrs Depew Vintage. It's a pdf copy of a bra pattern from the 1940s. I used the same stripey cotton and some black stretch cotton of a similar weight.



I used the unfolded fold over elastic for the straps because it looks similar to the wide ribbon used on my vintage bras. There's no underwire or anything but, let's face it, I don't actually need it.



I'm really happy with the way it turned out. They kind of look like a bikini but a cute one, so I don't mind.

Sewing Lingerie Part Two: I made a vintage lingerie set

I posted a while ago about my plan to delve into the world of lingerie sewing. I have (finally) dipped my toes into the pool, so to speak. I wanted to start simple so I made a bra type halter top and matching french knickers.

I used Simplicity 3250, which I have made before, for the top but I lengthened the bottom pieces so that it's more a midriff style. It looks way cuter on than in the photos (I know, I say that all the time), but you're just going to have to trust me on that because I am too shy to put pictures of myself wearing it on the internet.



The fabric is some vintage silk I got for $7.00. It was my first time sewing with silk but since it was relatively thick and stable it wasn't too much of a problem. I didn't have any bias binding that matched the fabric so just used some black for contrast.



The french knickers have little bias binding bows because well...I put bows on everything.

I'm pretty pleased with them for my first try. It's given me more confidence to try something a little bit harder.

I have started my first June Challenge dress but I've got two essays due on Friday so I probably won't have time to finish it before then. I have the rest of June off after that though, so I will (hopefully) have plenty of time to do all four dresses.

Sewing Lingerie Part One

I've been reading 'Sewing Lingerie that Fits' by Karen Morris. In the introduction she talks about how many people that sew their own clothing don't sew lingerie. I found this really interesting because I think she's right. I read a lot of sewing blogs and while a few of them have tackled lingerie the vast majority seem to stick to clothes only. I wondered if it was because lingerie was too hard, but I've seen these women sew difficult garments like winter coats and jeans so I don't think that's it.
I'm curious. If you sew have you sewn lingerie? Why/why not? Is it something that you're interested in?

I think I've mentioned before that I want to start sewing lingerie. This is for several reasons. Most of the lingerie that I like is ridiculously expensive and I'm not really in a position to spend that much on underwear. I'm sick of the poor quality of fabric and construction that you get with cheap underwear. I try to avoid buying things made in countries that have questionable human rights records. This is relatively easy with clothes. Most of my clothing is second hand or made by me. I very rarely buy anything new these days but underwear (and hosiery) is probably one of the only things I do. I do own some vintage lingerie; slips, girdles and long line bras but I wouldn't want to buy second hand knickers.



I have a few patterns and plenty of vintage lace and notions to use up. I thought it might be interesting to do a series on sewing lingerie. While I probably have more of a vintage style lingerie bent, I'm also interested in sewing comfortable, everyday type underwear. My goal is to sew some french knickers and soft bras out of silk, some regular cotton boyshorts, sew a vintage style longline bra and sew a swimsuit (I know it's not really lingerie but it uses similar techniques).

I know they're terribly 80s but I think I could make them look vintage

Some links that may be of interest:

Frilly Bits has instructions on how to draft your own french knickers/tap pants. I don't think there are instructions on how to sew the pattern up, so if anyone is interested just let me know and I can do a tutorial on it. I'd also recommend looking at their other posts because they make the most beautiful vintage inspired lingerie.

Zoe has a great tutorial on how to make undies with a serger.

New Vintage Lady is pretty much my hero of lingerie making. Check out the foundation garments page on her site. She has made everything from her own garter belt to tap panties to crinolines to mens underwear.

Threadbanger has an episode dedicated to making womens underwear. The pattern used in the episode is here.

Gertie's New Blog For Better Sewing has a tutorial on how to make a vintage inspired half slip.

If you need some inspiration or would rather buy lingerie than make it, Ohhh Lulu makes gorgeous bras, panties, rompers, swimwear and camisoles and sells them in her Etsy shop.